Two-fifty steps from the N train. A flaky shell, a custard set just enough to wobble, a top scorched honey-dark. Pulled from the oven every hour, sold by the half-dozen, paid for in singles. Since 1989.
Call (718) 871-2889 · 歡迎電話預訂The crust is pure lard-and-flour, layered until it shatters under a thumbprint. The custard is yolks, sugar, evaporated milk. The top is held under a furnace flame for forty seconds until the sugar blisters into a constellation of dark spots.
You eat it warm, standing on the sidewalk, before the wax paper has time to cool through. Half a dozen for $10.50. Cash, please.
There is no overnight stock at Xin Fa. Trays go in every hour, sometimes more often when the line out the door tells the baker to push faster. The cake of egg tart custard is mixed in the morning and again in the afternoon. The barbecue pork buns are filled by hand all day long.
It is why the windows fog up by 9:30. It is why a Sunset Park morning still smells, on Eighth Avenue, of butter and yeast.
The family came from Taishan in the late 1980s, joining the wave of Cantonese-speaking Brooklynites who turned Sunset Park's 8th Avenue into Brooklyn's Chinatown. In 1989, they opened the first Xin Fa.
The recipes are old. The flour is from the same mill the founder used in his first year. The Portuguese egg tart, introduced after the Macanese style swept Guangdong in the early '90s, has cost $1.75 for as long as anyone working here can remember.
Xin Fa sits on the busiest block of Brooklyn's largest Chinatown: a corridor of fish markets, dumpling houses, herbal shops and karaoke parlors stretching forty blocks from the Gowanus Expressway south to 65th Street.
The bakery is its north star. Sister stores in Manhattan and Queens (Lily Bloom) followed, but the original 5617 storefront is the one that defined the neighborhood's appetite.
5617 8th Avenue · Brooklyn · NY 11220